The stories we tell ourselves

 

Pictured: The author at a climbing gym

I want to talk about rock climbing and getting older and the stories we tell ourselves and letting physics do its job. I’m hoping that first sentence will make sense by the time we get to the end.

Back in a former life, when I was young and single, I spent a fair amount of time rock climbing. I have fond memories of those times. Camping in my Honda Element. The way the dust would billow in front of my shoes on the hike to the walls. The sound of carabiners jangling on my harness as I tied into the rope. The way different rocks had different textures and shapes that felt like different personalities. The raw feeling of my fingertips after a weekend of climbing. The adventure of it all.

In the intervening decades, I got married and had a few kids. With limited free time, I had to be more selective with my hobbies, and riding my bicycle won because I only need to roll out of my garage to start. My rock climbing these days comes once every year or three on business trips. Rock climbing gyms are a poor substitute for actual rock in the wilderness, but climbing on plastic holds bolted to plywood walls is significantly better than sitting in my hotel room watching YouTube videos and feeling lonely.

If you’re not familiar with the sport of rock climbing, there are a bunch of categories of climbing ranging from multipitch climbs up thousand-foot walls to bouldering. The sub-sport of bouldering involves finding boulders and climbing up them without a rope. It’s not a complicated concept. Bouldering in a gym is ideal for the common solo business traveler for the simple reason that you don’t need a partner to hold the other end of the rope because you don’t use a rope at all.

Boulder problems in America are graded for difficulty on a V-scale. A V0 is like a ladder while a V15 can only be climbed by a few elite climbers. The “V” in the V-scale does not stand for “vertical.” It stands for “Verm” and is named after a man called “the Verm” which is probably not his given name but climbers are weird so maybe. Back when I was climbing regularly, I could climb the occasionally V5 and the even more occasional V6. That put me in the category of intermediate climber. Better than a beginner, but not good enough to develop delusions of traveling around the country in a van and supporting myself by my climbing prowess. That sounds like a weird thing to be concerned about, but any amateur climber of sufficient skill is at risk of falling for the siren’s call of van life.

I give you this background into the world of bouldering difficulty grades because I want you to have  some reference when I tell you that my current goal in any bouldering session is to climb a V4. It’s not as good as I was, but it’s close. It allows me to dust the chalk off my hands, smile wryly, and think, “I’ve still got it.” The need to “still have it” becomes more important the longer the period of time “still” is being used to describe.

I was bouldering on my most recent business trip, and I was feeling heavy and weak. The tendons in my fingers whined as I tried to pull myself up the wall. My fingertips, having grown soft from years of typing, complained at the rough texture of the holds. My shoulders popped, my elbows creaked, and I felt like some sort of rusted-out farm machine being forced out of a barn after years of quiet deterioration. But I climbed anyway. I started with the V0s and then worked my way up the grades until I fell off a V3.

“You’re old and weak, Tom,” I told myself. This did not make me feel better.

I tried again and made it.

I saw a V4 that looked doable from the ground. Two moves in, and I knew that I took the wrong approach. Bouldering is like a puzzle you solve with your whole body, and the solution I was trying was the wrong one.

“There is no way you’re going to make this.”

I fell.

I sat on a bench and stared at the climb. I saw where I fell, and I saw what I needed to do in order to complete the climb. As I sat, I felt heavier and weaker. Like gravity was pulling me harder than it had a right to. I shook off the feeling and tried again.

Halfway up, my foot slipped and I swung out from the wall, holding on by fingertips and a toe.

“You’re never going to make it.”

I was annoyed at the voice, and I replied, “Not with that attitude I’m not. Get it together, Tom.” I dropped off the wall to mentally regroup.

I don’t know if other people talk to themselves in their head like that, but I did in that moment. And the other me, the negative me, shut up. I got back on the wall, and I finished the climb. I got my V4. I proved to myself that I still had it. And, most importantly, I was able to quiet the voice of unreasonable doubt.

I say “unreasonable” because sometimes the voice of doubt is what keeps me safe. I cannot fly, and thinking so while jumping off a cliff will not make it so. I cannot climb a V10, and no amount of positive self-talk will get me there. I am too heavy and too weak to do the moves necessary.* In other words, I am limited by physics. And that’s okay. We’re all limited by physics. But I can climb a V4 if I don’t let my inner dialogue artificially limit my abilities.

I hope your inner voice doesn’t stop you from still having it, whatever that means for you.

 

*As a forty-something-year old husband and father of two with a full-time job, I have zero desire to devote the time and training necessary to get good enough to do a V10. It’s a lifestyle commitment. To be frank, I’d rather spend that time with my wife and kids. They are a delight to be around.

 

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